About Hocuse

This project involved bringing back to life a pair of authentic Victorian boots from the 1890s. The leather uppers were structurally sound but required deep conditioning with mink oil. We replaced the completely worn soles with new leather soles cut to match the original dimensions. The heel blocks were reconstructed using stacked leather layers, a technique authentic to the period. All stitching was done by hand using waxed linen thread in a saddle stitch pattern. The metal buckles had corroded and were replaced with period-appropriate brass hardware. The entire process took 12 working hours spread across three weeks to allow proper drying between stages.

• Client: Private Collector
• Duration: 3 weeks
• Materials: Vegetable-tanned leather, brass hardware, waxed linen thread
• Techniques: Hand stitching, leather stacking, traditional welting
• Completed: March 2024

A client needed urgent repair of designer stilettos before a charity gala. The steel core of the left heel had bent, causing instability. We removed the leather covering, straightened the metal core, and added a reinforcement sleeve. The heel tips were replaced with Italian-made leather tips in matching burgundy. We used a heat-activated adhesive rated for high-stress applications. The original leather covering was carefully removed, treated, and reapplied. Each heel was tested with 80kg of weight to ensure stability. The colour matching required mixing three different leather dyes to achieve the exact shade. Total turnaround time was 36 hours including drying periods.

• Client: Corporate Executive
• Duration: 48 hours
• Materials: Italian leather tips, steel reinforcement, specialist adhesive
• Heel Height: 10cm
• Completed: February 2024

These Oxford brogues had suffered water damage to both side panels. We sourced full-grain calfskin leather with a similar grain pattern to the original. The damaged panels were carefully removed by unpicking the welt stitching. New panels were cut using the old ones as templates, then the brogue detailing was punched by hand using traditional tools. The panels were dyed in stages to match the aged tan colour of the rest of the shoe. We re-welted the affected areas using a Blake stitch construction, which is appropriate for this style. The entire shoe was then conditioned and polished to blend the repair. The work preserved the shoe's original character while extending its life by several years.

• Client: Barrister, Central London
• Duration: 10 days
• Materials: Full-grain calfskin, waxed thread, leather dye
• Technique: Blake stitch, hand-punched broguing
• Completed: January 2024

These hiking boots had covered over 800 miles before the soles wore through. The uppers remained in excellent condition, making them ideal candidates for resoling. We used Vibram Megagrip compound, which provides 25% more grip on wet surfaces compared to standard rubber. The old soles were removed and the midsoles assessed. We rebuilt the midsoles using dual-density EVA foam - firmer in the heel for support, softer in the forefoot for comfort. The new Vibram soles were attached using a combination of stitching and polyurethane adhesive. All seams were sealed with waterproof tape. The boots were tested in our water tank for 30 minutes to verify waterproofing. The client reported the boots felt better than new due to the upgraded midsole material.

• Client: Outdoor Enthusiast
• Duration: 1 week
• Materials: Vibram Megagrip, EVA foam, polyurethane adhesive
• Boot Size: UK 10
• Completed: April 2024

These penny loafers were inherited from the client's grandfather and held significant sentimental value. The leather uppers had dried out but responded well to conditioning. We created new insoles from vegetable-tanned leather, which moulds to the foot over time. The midsoles were filled with cork granules mixed with latex, a traditional method that provides cushioning while remaining breathable. New leather soles were cut and attached using a combination of brass tacks and adhesive. The heels were built up using stacked leather layers, each layer individually shaped and sanded. The iconic penny strap was carefully preserved and reconditioned. We used period-appropriate construction methods throughout to maintain the shoes' vintage character. The restoration took 15 hours of skilled work.

• Client: Family Heirloom
• Duration: 2 weeks
• Materials: Vegetable-tanned leather, cork, brass tacks
• Original Era: 1960s
• Completed: March 2024

The original zipper on these motorcycle boots had failed after five years of daily use. We installed a heavy-duty YKK metal zipper rated for 10,000 open-close cycles. The zipper features a locking slider that prevents accidental opening during riding. We added a leather backing strip for extra strength and to prevent the zipper from catching on socks. The stitching was done with bonded nylon thread, which is stronger than standard polyester and resistant to UV degradation. Each stitch point at the top and bottom was reinforced with bar tacks. We added custom leather pull tabs for easier operation with gloves. The entire zipper assembly was tested under tension equivalent to emergency dismounting. The boots are now more durable than when originally manufactured.

• Client: Daily Commuter
• Duration: 5 days
• Materials: YKK metal zipper, bonded nylon thread, leather backing
• Zipper Length: 30cm
• Completed: February 2024